Tuesday, March 9

Himalaya Sweater! Free Pattern!

Hi friends crocheters and knitters!

I am really pleased to present you this sweater I have loved making. If you want to stretch your knitting skills,  go for it! I love having large projects going on and I was glad when Christina my daughter who wears the sweater here above asked me to knit for her a good quality warm and cozy pullover! And that's it! Himalaya Sweater is born!


Schroll down for the written pattern step by step!

Get the ad-free printable PDF pattern here

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                              HIMALAYA SWEATER

Sizes: Adults:  Small ( Medium,Large, XLarge, 2XLarge)

Materials needed

 

-US size 6 (4 mm) needles for all sweater parts

-US size 6 (4 mm) circular needles for the ribbed neckline

 

You will need sport weight yarn approximately

Small- 1450yds, Medium-1550yds, Large -1650yds, XLarge-1750yds

2XLarge 1850yds

I used:

MONDIAL MERINOS EXTRA   50%merinos 50% acrylic

100g 245m 267yds

Skill level: intermediate

Gauge: 22sts and 28 rows = 4” x 4” (10cm x10cm)

 


Abbreviations in US terms:

CO= cast on

K=knit

P=purl

Sl=slip

Sts=stitches

Yo= yarn over

Bo= bind off

RS=right side

WS=wrong side

inc=increase

K2tog= knit 2 stitches together, decrease stitch

SSK=slip slip knit, decrease stitch

M1R:=make 1 right, increase stitch

M1L=make 1 left, increase stitch

KFB=knit front and back (* see st explanation below)

Stitch explanation

K2tog= insert the right needle into two sts at the same time and knit

SSK=slip the first st as if to knit, slip the second st as if to knit, then slide the left- hand needle into the front part of both sts and knit them together.

M1R = make 1 stitch leaning to the right , by picking up  horizontal loop lying before next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front and knitting into  the front of it.

M1L =make 1 stitch leaning to the left , by picking up  horizontal loop lying before next stitch, , bringing the needle from the front  to the back and knitting into the back of it.

 

c4f = slip 4 stitches onto cable needle and drop needle to the front of your work, K the next 4sts, then k4 from the cable needle.

 

                     FINISHED    MEASUREMENTS

 

SIZES

BUST

CIRCU

MFER

ENCE

FRONT PIECE WIDTH

LENGTH FROM SHOULDER TO BOTTOM

SLEEVES LENGTH

 

SLEEVES WIDTH

In upper

part

HALF

ARMHOLE

SMALL

37” (94cm)

18” (47cm)

20”(51cm)

18.11” (46cm)

14.17” (36cm)

7.08”

(18cm)

MEDIUM

39” (99cm

19.75” (50cm)

21”(53cm)

18.90” (48cm)

15.74” (40cm)

7.87”

(20cm)

LARGE

43”

(109cm)

21.50” (54cm)

22”(55cm)

19.70” (50cm)

17.30” (44cm)

8.66”

(22cm)

XLARGE

46”

(116cm)

23”

(58cm)

23”(58cm)

20.50”

(51cm)

19”

(48cm)

9.44”

(24cm)

2XLARGE

48”

(122cm)

24.8”

(63cm)

24”(60cm)

21”

(53cm)

19.50”

(50cm)

9.84”

(25cm)


The sweater style is slightly loose and rather short


                                          KNITTING PROJECT


This is a bottom up pattern

- knit the back piece, the front piece, the sleeves (it’s not a rectangle) 

- sew the shoulders seam

- sew the side seams from bottom up to a point so you leave an armhole opening.

- fold the sleeves and pin the entire underarm seam.

- sew the sleeves to the body ( to the armhole opening we left unsewn)

- pick up sts and knit the ribbed neckline  

 

                            PATTERN

BACK PIECE

CO 102(110,118,126,138) sts

Ribbing section in K2, P2 pattern

Row 1: * K2, P2* to the end, K2, turn

Row 2: * P2, K2* to the end, P2, turn

Repeat row 1 and 2 alternatively until row 14


Main pattern

Row 1: slip the first stitch knit-wise, K all sts to the end, turn

Row 2: slip the first stitch purl-wise, P all sts to the end, turn

Repeat rows 1 and 2 in stockinette stitch until your piece measures 

18.8” (19.7”, 20.5”, 21.5”, 22.5”)  or   48 (50,52,55,57)cm


Neckline shaping: we are going to bind off a number of  sts in the middle of next row, place markers on either side of the sts to be bound off.

Note: This is how you should work the BO section so that you have the correct number of sts bound off: in row 1 work all sts to 1 st before the first marker, remove marker and knit the first st of your BO. Now pull the first st over the second and bind off normally, continue binding off the stitches normally (knit, pull over, knit, pull over, etc.) until you get to the second marker. Now you have one st on your right needle and the marker is the next thing on your left needle. Remove the marker and BO one more st. This will guarantee that you have bound off the correct number of stitches.


 

Row 1(RS): K 33(37,40,43, 48)sts, BO next 36(36, 38, 40, 42)sts, K last 33(37,40,43, 48)sts, turn

Row 2 (WS): P 33(37,40,43, 48)sts, drop the working yarn, just let the strand in use hang.  Now pass over the bound off sts and go to the other side, add yarn from a new ball to work this side, P  33(37,40,43, 48)sts, turn

*NOTE: Now you have a strand on each side so you can work each shoulder with its own piece of yarn. 

Row 3(RS):K to last 5sts,K2tog, K2tog, K last st, drop yarn/ to the other side now:take new yarn, K1, SSK, SSK, K to the end (2 sts decreased on each side), turn

Row 4(WS):P 31(35,38,41,46) sts, drop yarn, / to the other side: P 31(35,38,41,46) sts,turn

Repeat rows 3 and 4 x2 times more , at the end of row 8 you will have 

27(31,34,37,42 )sts on each shoulder

Next Row(RS): BO all sts on each shoulder

You should have on each shoulder 27(31,34,37,42)  sts

Fasten off weave all ends.


                                      FRONT PIECE

CO 102(110,118,126,138) sts

Ribbing section in K2, P2 pattern

Row 1: * K2, P2* to the end, K2, turn

Row 2: * P2, K2* to the end, P2, turn

Repeat row 1 and 2 alternatively until row 14

 

Main pattern

*in blue I have written the cable part of the front piece

Row 1: slip the first stitch knit-wise, K all sts to the end, turn

Row 2: slip the first stitch purl-wise, P all sts to the end, turn

Row 3(RS cable):K21(24,28,31,36), K2, slip 4 stitches onto cable needle and drop needle to the front of your work, K next 4 sts, K4 from the cable needle, K2, THEN  K36 (38,38,40,42) K36 (38,38,40,42)this is the central section, K2, slip 4 stitches onto cable needle and drop needle to the front of your work, K next 4 sts, K4 from the cable needle,K2, and lastly K21(24,28,31,36), turn

Row 4(WS):P21(24,28,31,36), K2, P8, K2, P36 (38,38,40,42) this is the central section, K2, P8, K2, P21(24,28,31,36),turn

Row 5(RS): K21(24,28,31,36),K12, THEN  K36 (38,38,40,42)  this is the central section, K12,  K21(24,28,31,36), turn

Row 6(WS):rep row 4

Row 7:rep row 5

Row 8: rep row 4

Row 9: rep row 5

Row 10: rep row 4

Row 11: rep row 5

Row 12: rep row 4

 Repeat  rows 3-12  until desired length

You are going to be working cables in rows 3,13, 23,33,43,53,63,73,83,93,103,113,123

*if you want your sweater longer then you can knit more rows until you come to the point where you will bind off stitches for neckline.

 Work until the piece is  17.7” (18.5”, 18.9”, 20”, 20.5”) inches or 45(47,48,51,52)cm long

Continue with neckline shaping, you are going to be working from now on in stockinette st(no more cables)

Row 1(RS): K 36 (40,43,46,52)sts, BO next 30(30,32,34,36)sts, K last 36 (40,43,46,52)sts, turn

Row 2 (WS): P 36 (40,43,46,52)sts, drop the working yarn, just let the strand in use hang.  Now pass over the bound off sts  and go to the other side, add yarn from a new ball to work this side,P 36 (40,43,46,52))sts, turn

*NOTE: Now you have a strand on each side so you can work each shoulder with it’s own piece of yarn.

Row 3(RS):K to last 5sts,K2tog, K2tog, K last st, drop yarn/ to the other side now:take new yarn, K1, SSK, SSK, K to the end (2 sts decreased on each side), turn

Row 4(WS):P all sts, drop yarn, / to the other side: P all sts,turn

Repeat rows 3 and 4 x one more time so you have worked rows 5 & 6. Now continue on next row 7

Row 7(RS): ):K to last 3sts,K2tog, , K last st, drop yarn/ to the other side now:take new yarn, K1, SSK, K to the end (1 st decreased on each side), turn

Row 8(WS): P all sts, drop yarn, / to the other side: P all sts,turn

Repeat rows 7 and 8

For sizes Small and Medium  x 5 times more

For sizes Large  and XLarge   x 6 times more

For size 2XLarge                     x 7 times more

Next row for all sizes (RS): BO all stitches in both shoulders

You should have on each shoulder 26(30,33,36,41) sts,

*now you will have front and back shoulders with pretty much the same number of sts in all sizes and you can sew them together nicely!

Fasten off, weave in all ends.



                                                         SLEEVES

This is a sweater with fitted sleeves so you are going to be working increases in the beginning and at the end of certain rows and you are going to be working the cable pattern as well in the center of the sleeves width.

You can work both sleeves at the same time on a single set of needles with 2 different skeins of yarn.

CO 44(46,46,48,48) sts

Ribbing section in K2, P2 pattern

Row 1: * K2, P2* to the end, K2, turn

Row 2: * P2, K2* to the end, P2, turn

Repeat row 1 and 2 alternatively until row 14

 

 

Main pattern

*in blue it’s the cable part

Row 1(increase): sl1, K1, M1R, K all sts to the 2 sts before the end M1L,K2,  turn

Row 2: slip the first stitch purl-wise, P all sts to the end, turn

Row 3(RS cable):K16(17,17,18,18), K2, slip 4 stitches onto cable needle and drop needle to the front of your work, K next 4 sts, K4 from the cable needle, K2, THEN  K16(17,17,18,18), turn

Row 4(WS):P16(17,17,18,18), K2, P8, K2, P16(17,17,18,18), turn

Row 5(RS): K all sts

Row 6(WS):rep row 4

Row 7(increase) :rep row 1

Row 8: rep row 4

Row 9: rep row 5

Row 10: rep row 4

Row 11: rep row 5

Row 12: rep row 4

Row 13(increase +cable): sl1, K1, M1R,K all sts until you reach the cable section: K2, slip 4 stitches onto cable needle and drop needle to the front of your work, K next 4 sts, K4 from the cable needle, K2, K all sts to the 2 sts before the end M1L,K2,  turn

Row 14:P all sts until you reach the cable section, K2, P8, K2, P all sts to the end, turn

Continue in pattern making increases:

Small: ( in 18 rows in total )1,7,13, 19, 25, 31, 37, 43, 49, 55, 61, 67, 73,79,85,91,97,103

Medium: ( in 21 rows in total )on rows 1,7,13, 19, 25, 31, 37, 43, 49, 55, 61, 67, 73,79,85,91,97,103,109,115,121

Large: ( in 26 rows in total ) on rows 1,5,9,13,17,21,27,33,39,45,51,57,63,69,75,81,87,93,99,105,111,117,123,129,135,139

XLarge: ( in 29 rows in total )on rows 1,5,9,13, 17, 21,25,29,33,37,41,45,49, 53, 57,61, 65,69,73, 79, 85, 91, 97,103,109,115,121,127,133

2XLarge: ( in 31 rows in total )on rows 1,5,9,13, 17, 21,25,29,33,37,41,45,49, 53, 57,61, 65,69,73, 79, 85, 91, 97,103,109,115,121,127,133,139,145

 

 

Follow chart on page 3 to make the right length and width in upper part for every size.

On every increase row you are going to be adding 1 st at the beginning and 1 at the end, 2 sts in total and at the end of  working your sleeves,  you will have added

In size Small: increase in 18 rows, work 129 rows in total for desired length

In size Medium: increase in 21 rows, work 134 rows in total for desired length

In size Large: increase in 26 rows, work 140 rows in total for desired length

In size XLarge: increase in 29 rows, work 1143 rows in total for desired length

In size 2XLarge: increase in 31 rows, work 149 rows in total for desired length

Last row for all sizes (RS): BO all stitches

Fasten off, weave in all ends.



                                   SEWING

SEW  shoulders

Place back piece flat on a table and place front parts on to the back, right sides facing you.

 Fasten off,weave in all ends.

SEW UP   the sides until bottom of armholes. Start sewing from sweater’s bottom, up to a point so that you leave unsewn a part for armholes as indicated in chart on page 3. This space matches with the sleeve width.

                             




SEW THE SLEEVES SEAM AND SEW THEM ON THE SWEATER

Fold the sleeves in half lengthways and sew the entire underarm seam.

Then place the midway point of sleeves top width on to the shoulder seam, right side facing you, pin in place and sew together.

Fasten off, weave in all ends.


PICK UP AND KNIT RIBBED NECKLINE

The last steps in Himalaya Sweater is picking up stitches along the neckline to create the rib trim

* The neckline is knitted in the round with US 7(4,5mm) circular needle

*When picking up, pick up into both legs of the stitch

* You will be picking up the stitches from the holes in the middle of the Vs of your cast off edge. 

*In Himalaya Sweater, the trim is worked in a 1×1 rib so the total number of stitches picked up needs to be a multiple of 2

Starting at the right shoulder seam, using a 4mm crochet hook pick up and put on your needle : approximately 76sts (in small and medium) and  86 sts in Large, XLarge, 2XLarge from all around the neckline perimeter.

*place a marker in your starting point of the round

When picking up it’s not easy to pick up the sts having the right leg of every stitch on the needle. Now that you are ready to work the first row, you will have to put every st in the right position on the needle, check my video on this matter.

Ribbing section in K1, P1 pattern

Row 1: * K1, P1* to the end

*now you will continue knitting in the round,when you end one row you are going to be sliping the marker in your right needle and continuing on next  row

Row 2: repeat row 1 ( you are going to be knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts)

Repeat row 2 another 2 or 3 times

When you complete the last row of your pattern you will begin to bind off just as if you were continuing the pattern.

Last row: BO all sts ( knit the knits and purl the purls as you bind off, when you purl a stitch take the yarn in back so it’s easier to pass one st over the other)

Fasten off, weave in all ends. End of tutorial, thank you, Mary!



Happy Knitting!


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